Sunday, November 15, 2009

How To Build A Rain Garden – A Solution For Soggy Wet Areas On Your Property

Photo Credit - from www.rd.com - Lucie B. AmundsenDear Casual Gardener,

What the heck is a “Rain Garden”?

Signed, Curious on Country Ridge Road

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Dear Curious,

This is a timely question as we are entering a typical Fall rainy season. It is a good time to get a Rain Garden started, with the intention of completing the process in the Spring.

Do you have a wet spot on your residential or business property? Go with the flow and create a rain garden to help solve the problem. An existing wet spot is the perfect area to place a Rain Garden because it’s the area that naturally accepts a lot of rain water run-off. Fighting against this location and having the water run-off elsewhere might be an unending battle. My suggestion if you have an existing wet area in your yard, is to build a Rain Garden on top of the spot and redirect the water from your roof, home and driveway to the location.

A “Rain Garden” is a man-made depression in the ground. Rain gardens are suitable for any land use situation; residential, commercial and industrial. It is used as a way to improve water run-off while beautifying your landscape. A Rain Garden forms a “bioretention area” by collecting water runoff, storing it, than permitting it to be filtered through and slowly absorbed by the soil. Ultimately, by creating a rain garden you are assisting your community with Stormwater Management.

We suburban homeowners – or anyone for that matter – can creatively recycle all the wasted water which runs off our roofs and landscapes this way. Usually the water gets shuttled to the drain and eventually a river through the stormwater system, then sent off to the ocean. It is much better if we are able to replace the water to the water table after we “filter” it through a Rain Garden. By creating a “Rain Garden” you are truly contributing to the environment in a positive way. It also allows some people to grow beautiful wetland perennials – a magnificent contribution to your community.

Choosing the right place for your rain garden is important. A rain garden is a system of retention pond area, soil, plants and mulch that will retain water and soak it up instead of letting it run off of your property (even though your “pond” will be dry most of the time). So the most basic things are the “pond,” or depression into which water will flow, and the soils that will absorb the water. Each Rain Garden site should be considered unique. Microclimates (light, temperature and wind), and the size of the drainage area will influence the size of the rain garden and plant selection process.

The base layer of a Rain Garden should be a reservoir of gravel at the bottom of the garden bed. You can also add tiles or an under-drain that leads to another area. This will prevent a waterlogged rain garden. The idea is to create a living sponge of soil, plants, roots and mulch, not a soggy bog. Additional components of a Rain Garden include a base mulch/organic layer. It provides for the decomposition of organic material, and also plays an important role in the removal of metals. Shredded hardwood mulch is the preferred choice, since it allows for maximum surface area for binding and resists flotation/wash-out. Mix in planting soil. The best mix is probably organic matter in the form of leaf mulch (20%) blended into a sandy soil (50%) with and about 30% top soil. The planting soil mixture provides a source of water and nutrients for the plants to sustain growth.

A planting design should include species that tolerate extremes. My suggestion is to use native species. You can creatively plant them to be “naturalistic” in design or combine them with grasses and non-native perennials which might be more floral. There will be periods of water inundation and very dry periods, so plant selections must be able to survive all these conditions. Most river bank plant species will do well in rain gardens. The choice of species could include plants that mimic forest habitat and have an aesthetic landscape value such as flowers, berries, interesting leaves or bark. Groundcovers, perennials shrubs and trees can be incorporated into the planting design as well.

So go out there and work on that wet spot in your yard - - fix it by building a Rain Garden!!

For further information on Native Plants and Rain Gardens and how to build them, please contact Jim Kleinwachter of Conservation @ Home, a division of The Conservation Foundation (http://www.theconservationfoundation.org/), at 630-553-0687 x 302.

Jim’s website suggests the Rain Garden Manual  (which can be downloaded here in a PDF format) from The University of Wisconsin Extension Service .

Another good online resource for Rain Garden building with very detailed information is www.raingardens.org or this blog, which also has some marvelous photos - http://bit.ly/1DAjqw.

Special thanks - - The diagram photo above is credited to “The Family Handyman” section on Readers Digest.com and an article by Lucie B. Amundsen. What a great resource! Thank you very much for sharing this diagram with The Casual Gardener readers.

Shawna Coronado says Get Healthy! Get Green! Get Community! www.thecasualgardener.com, The Green Blog - www.gardeningnude.com, or The Garden Blog - http://thecasualgardener.blogspot.com

11 comments:

Naomi Sachs, ASLA said...

Great post, Shawna! Rain gardens are such a win-win idea. You keep your basement, or the neighbor's property from flooding, and you get a beautiful garden to boot!

Michelle said...

Great information.

Shawna said...

A very sustainable garden for sure!

Shawna

Jean said...

Do you have pictures of your own rain garden?

Please suggest some specific plants to use in a rain garden.

garden girl said...

Hi Shawna, we have a swale way in the back of our yard that was probably part of the original grading here when the home was built in the 1960's.

The swale used to fill up after a heavy rain and then drain pretty quickly, until our neighbor's weeping willow started dying a few years ago and fell during a winter storm almost two years ago. Now the swale is always wet in some areas. Two years ago I started planting in it. I'm so looking forward to seeing plants like marsh marigold and cardinal flowers in our new garden area - plants that wouldn't be happy in our dry shade garden but will hopefully thrive in the wet swale.

So far, pussy willows, red twig dogwoods, a river birch, winterberries, and Japanese dappled willow I added a couple of years ago are very happy either in the water or just slightly upstream. Existing shrubs upstream that thrive in spite of the flooding there are blackhaw viburnums and Cornelian cherry dogwoods. They're planted where flooding occurs but usually drains within a few days.

It's really fun discovering what plants I can add to enhance this area. Oh and um. . . forsythia doesn't like wet feet. Even upstream, one I planted two years died within the first three months. I saw it struggling, and wish I'd moved it before it was too late. Now I'm more careful about doing my homework before adding anything back there.

Shawna said...

Love these bush ideas by the way - and thanks for letting my readers know about Forsythia!

Shawna Coronado

janie said...

Please advise your readers that putting a rain garden in that 'wet spot' will result in the rain garden not draining, and could very easily produce a wonderful breeding ground for mosquitoes.

There was nothing wrong with the original text, but it should not have been changed to suit whatever purposes.

Do not put a rain garden in the wet mushy spot in your yard!

Shawna said...

Hi Janie,

I've been advised that with the proper rebuild of the base product which is below the planting - in other words, the soil amendment and structure - this should be fine. For instance, rebuilding the base layer to contain gravel for proper drainage would be an important step. Then adding the proper soil mix to help improve the situation as well.

I explained this in the blog specifically so my readers would understand the need to build the proper base for the plants to be placed on.

Placing your garden in a physical ponded area without any amendment or change of the current soil conditions, could of course cause problems.

The Rain Garden manual which Jim Kleinwachter suggests for reading material contains even more information which is useful in relationship to this.

In the end, if you have concerns about your particular garden conditions, it would be wise to consult a landscape architect or rain garden expert for further assistance.

Thanks for your comment!

Shawna Coronado

Shawna said...

Jean,

Specific plants would depend on your local conditions. For example, your climate zone, your native species list, what it is that you would like to do with the garden - - have more flowers, have more grasses, etc.?

Please feel free to contact me at my email address - blog@thecasualgardener.com and perhaps I could better guide you based on your individual conditions.

While I have assisted several times in designing and building rain gardens, I do not have one currently on my property. Go to this link for some awesome photos - http://bit.ly/1DAjqw.

Also, here's an example of another article I wrote on the process of building a rain garden - http://www.gardeningnude.com/gardeningnude/2009/10/college-of-dupage-students-make-a-difference-with-a-rain-garden.html.

Take care!

Shawna

Shawna said...

On a further note related to this, my friend Jim Kleinwachter sent me a note confirming my answer about preparing the ground as well as suggesting native plants.

Jim says, "We can plant the low spots with water loving native plants that will absorb the water and DO NOT hold water OR provide places for mosquitoes to breed. The native plants will wick up the water utilizing it and slowly releasing it - it does not need to drain quickly -- filling a wet spot will only displace the water to another spot in the yard that will become the low spot after you have filled the previous low spot."

Seems pretty clear to me! Prepare the soil. Plant natives. No more wet spot.

Sh'bang!

Thanks for reading!

Shawna Coronado

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